Fuel System Installation Gallery
The difference between -8AN adaptor and the supplied barb fitting is ridiculous.
You can see how any adaptor installed into the threads on the Walbro would greatly reduce the orifice size from -6AN down to -4AN.
A small difference can be seen between the -8AN on the left and the Walbro inlet size (-6AN). If you were to drill out the threads on the fuel pump you could easily match the -8AN supply line, but I did not want to worry about getting metal shavings into my new pump, so I opted to leave them alone.
I used a 3/8" NPT female to -8AN male adaptor on the outside of the fuel pump. I did not have a 3/8" NPT die so I just used the adaptor to cut the threads into the soft aluminum of the Walbro using a vise, socket, 3/8" to1/4" socket adaptor, 1/4" short extension and tap & die wrench tightly screwed down on the 1/4" extension.
Threading the bottom of the fuel pump is much easier than the top because it is the fixed part of the fuel pump. You can see that the adaptor is only threading the corners of the fuel pump. This difference in space will be taken up later by JB Weld, which is fuel rated.
The top of the pump is actually screwed into the body of the pump, so you cannot just tighten it using a vise, because you end up screwing the pump further into the pump body. I used a pair of vise-grips to keep the pump from turning when I was making the threads.
Here you can see my Mickey Mouse tap & die tool in action. It worked very well.
Here is a picture of the -AN adaptor screwed half way onto the fuel pump.
Here I am scoring both ends of the pump to give the JB Weld much more adhering strength. JB Weld works better with rough surfaces when compared to smooth surfaces.
When applying the JB Weld I used a generous amount on both sides of the adhearing surfaces. I applied it to both the inside threads of the adaptor and the outside of the fuel pump. After screwing the adaptor down onto the fuel pump I had to take care in removing the extra JB Weld from the inside of the fitting orifice. A small flat head screw driver worked well for this.
Adaptor JB Welded to pump bottom.
Completely modified -8AN Walbro in-line fuel pump. Pretty, huh?
I actually screwed up on tapping the fuel rail, as can be seen in the picture below. Can you tell? Well if not, I tapped the wrong end of the fuel rail. If I was running a FPR off the back of the fire wall I would be fine, but my Buschur/SX FPR mounts in the stock position. DooHHH! So just imagine that this is the correct side because I JB welded the fitting into the replacement fuel rail before I took any pictures. The 1g fuel rail is tapped for 3/8" NPT adaptor.
The red highlighted section is the approximate location of where the in-line fuel pump is to be installed on car.
Underneath the car along the inside passenger side body seem there is a small indentation about 1/4"-3/8" in diameter. I used this as my first mounting point for the fuel pump rear mounting clamp.
A lovely picture of my crocked holes drilled from the underside of car. I would recommend starting with a smaller drill bit and work you way up or at least use a punch to center your holes.
Fuel pump bolted in position along the inside of the body seam.
The ground wire bolted down directly to the body of the car using the fuel pump mounting hardware. Make sure to use a soldering iron for ALL of your electrical connections. It doesn't take that much more effort and it will save you untold suffering later on... when nothing goes wrong with your proper install!
I did not want to install the filter in the engine compartment because the easiest and most logical location is under the battery tray in the original fuel filter location. I hate removing the battery for any reason, so I decided under the car was the best location for me. It only takes five seconds to lift the car with a hydraulic lift. As a bonus with not removing the battery, I do not have reset the DSMLink settings or relearn LearnIdleOffset and ACLearnIdleOffset after I am done cleaning the filter.
-8AN fuel line routes around frame rail and front suspension assembly.
Mounting clamps are pop riveted to the body every 7".
What you see from the outside. I think I will paint the screw heads black later.
Fuel supply line run up between the firewall and front suspension assembly and feed to the fuel rail. The path the fuel line takes between the front suspension assembly and firewall is very tight. I could barely get the -8AN line routed through it. I had to run the hose through first and then install the compression hose ends after. Make sure to leave a little slack in the fuel line for anticipated engine movement.
-8AN supply line attached to 1g fuel rail.
1g fuel rail tapped for -8AN supply line, 1/8" electric fuel pressure sending unit and 1/8" liquid filled fuel pressure gauge. Don't even think about using a non-liquid filled fuel pressure gauge like the B&M... they are crap! In this picture you can see how I have my coil pack zip-tied to the top of the Magnus intake manifold.
Buschur/SX FPR mounted in the stock location feeds the -6AN return line.
The -6AN return line connects to the stock fuel supply hard line to run the fuel back to the fuel tank. One of the metric adaptors are used here to connect the -AN fuel line to the stock fuel line. Even though the adaptor is machined to mate the stock fitting, I used pipe thread compound and installed a #83 o-ring from OSH in the bottom of the fitting to assure a leak-proof fit.
Power for the secondary fuel pump is taken at the stock re-wired location. That way when the stock pump turns on, both pumps turn on. Here also, you can see the second metric adaptor being used to connect the stock supply line from the tank to the -AN fuel supply line.