Water Injection Install
UPDATED 2-22-06
The spare tire covers the washer fluid reservoir and a vast amount of space.
The washer fluid reservoir and water pump all fit on one side. This allows you to use the other side for whatever else you might want.
The water exits the reservoir through the front windshield washer pump and split at a T-fitting. By tapping into the front supply line, I do not have to make any new holes in the reservoir and it is already designed from factory to pull the water from the lowest point in the container. One side continues onto the front washer nozzles and the other feeds the water pump. Before the water enters the water pump it is filter by a simple see-through fuel filter. After the pump, is the water hammer (pressure accumulator), water pressure gauge, and the 1/4 NPT to 1/4" barb fitting. From there 1/4" poly hose travels along the drivers side following the factory wire harness through the steering boot and into the engine compartment where it attaches to a small manifold. The manifold split the water into three paths: two for one HSV each and the third is for a future intercooler sprayer.
UPDATED 2-22-06: If I were to do this again, I would install a bulk head fitting between the two washer fluid pumps. As it is setup now, I get leakage from the hood washer fluid nozzles after boosting the car. Which is very annoying if you just washed your car and now you have huge water spots on the hood of the car. Something like kimyeelai's setup on the DSMLink forum, which is explained in this thread. If you do not have access to the DSMLink forum, then look at the bottom of this webpage.
The water hammer, shock arrestor, accumulator.
The T-fitting taps into the water line running from the front washer pump. On my car the front washer pump has a black rubber hose and the rear washer pump has a clear hose.
Close-up shot of the simple 1/4 vacuum T-fitting.
I order a 1/4" check valve from McMaster, part #7757K43. This was to prevent the water pump from drawing in air through the front washer nozzle line.
I am using the Aquamist HSV with the FIA2 to control the water flow. The FIA2 is installed along the driver's side of the center console. In the back ground my Tech Edge WB02 and 400amp inverter can be seen.
Here you can see the water junction in the engine compartment. 1/4" poly water line is run from the trunk to this junction. The water is split between the water injection and intercooler mister systems. The solenoid on the left of the junction feeds the intercooler misting system. The two brass fittings feed two HSV (High Speed Valve). Each of those HSV's supply two nozzles each. There is a total of four nozzles currently running on my water injection system. Since I am using the Aquamist HSV, I only have one stage. When the system activates all four nozzles are running. As the fuel being consumed by the engine increases with RPM, the water increases flow to match. In this system the water to air/fuel ratio stays constant.
NOTE: There are cheaper alternatives to water flow control, but remember things are cheaper for a reason. Although the other controllers say they are "progressive" they are really only semi-progressive. You CANNOT progressively control fluid flow through a pump by regulating the voltage. There is NOT a linear relationship between voltage and pump flow. The ONLY way to control the fluid linearly is with injectors AND a pressure regulator like the fuel system. The alternative is the Aquamist HSV and FIA2 combination. With the HSV/FIA2 the flow is as close to progressive as you can get without designing a hole new fuel system. The only part it falters at is regulating pressure to the nozzles. So, the transitional period between system activation and full boost is not perfect because as the boost pressure increases the fluid pressure does not increase. But the HSV/FIA2 system is still keeping linear injection rate with the fuel injectors, so it is not a huge discrepancy. Since you HSV/FIA2 system is designed around your injector size, once you reach full boost, your fluid injection IS linear and progressive.
The new direct port injection setup. Two HSV's feed four 0.6mm nozzles.
UPDATED 2-22-06: I have since upgraded my fuel injectors from 950's to 1600's. As a result, I needed to increase the water jet's to four 1.0mm to keep the correct percentage of water/methanol and fuel.
Updated Notes/questions 4/03/04
2r99gst wrote on 04-03-2004 18:19:
I really like your WI setup and I am considering mimicking your setup (if you
don't mind), if I do decide on doing WI.
The only question that I have is the wiring for the FIA2. I want to also use the
FIA2/HSV instead of a simple on/off condition for the WI without varying amounts
of WI. A constant water:air ratio is definitely the way to go.
My question is where did you have to wire the FIA2 to? It's being driven off of
the injector signal, correct? So just a connection to one of the injectors?
Also, how are you activating the system? Are you using a pressure switch,
DSMLink FPRS controls, or something else?
I was looking at this diagram:
[URL=http://www.aquamist.co.uk/press/806-441/instruction.html]http://www.aquamist.co.uk/press/806-441/instruction.html[/URL]
Thanks,
Eric
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Eric,
Please feel free to copy me. That is what us DSMer's do. I did not think
of this all by myself. I had a lot of help, Brad at George's Imports
will atest to this.
Note: Run a 1/4" line from the trunk to the engine compartment. Less pressure
drop when the system is operating with the big ShurFlo. And it is much cheaper
at OSH 0.12$ per/ft.
On the FIS2/HSV set up with the Surflo pump. There are only 5 wires that matter.
Red, Brown, Black, Blue and green.
The green one is hooked up to the #1 cylinder drive signal for the ECU. I tapped
in for this in the engine compartment, but sicne then I have thought about the
"best" wiring. You should tap the line at the ECU, Then you will have less
connections in the engine compartment. Use the Vfaq to find out which ECU pin it
is.
Blue goes to your trigger for the system, I am using a boost switch, but you can
connect this to your FPR. The choice is yours. If your going to hook it up to
the FPR, then find the correct pin at the ECU and connect there.
Black is Ground.
Brown is the trigger wire for the HSV. Connect it to the HSV.
Red is your power wire. You must connect it to the FIA2 and HSV.
Any questions? E-mail me lokmeup@juno.com
Ron
PS. When using the HSV, you will be able to run much more water than others
simple because your delivery is much more efficient. I have found that instead
of finding the misfiring point, you will find the diminished returns point. So
be vigilant in your tuning and monitor your 60-90 times. When they increase
dramatically and you cannot tune them back at the same boost pressure you have
hit your limit.
Parts List From Washer Fluid Reservoir To The Engine:
This is for my specific application. You do not have to do it this exact way. Take what you like ignore what you do not like. (EXAMPLE: Like only one HSV is really needed to run two nozzles)
Parts List For The Electrical Installation Side:
This is just to give you an idea of how I wired my system. IT IS ONLY A GUIDE. I am not responsible for any problems you may have as a result of following my example. I COULD BE WRONG. Make sure to double check all manufacture instruction before connecting any wires. If you have never dealt with electrical wiring before, have someone else install this for you.
WIRING THE WATER PUMP
Bulk head fitting installation
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Thread:
Water Injection, Do's & Don'ts..
View Single Post |
12-08-2004, 22:22
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This is how I tapped into the windshield washer tank...with a bulk head
fitting. Taking the pumps out allows me to manipulate the nut to fit onto
the bulkhead fitting.
  The pump set-up. 
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