Two Stage Electric Boost Controller
Electric dual stage boost controllers are NOT cheap, but there is an alternative that is extremely cheap and easy to make. And the best thing about it is the fact that most stuff need to make it, you already have in your possession.
DSMLink nitrous controls (you might have)
Toggle switch (cheap)
Any boost controller (you should have)
OEM: Fuel Pressure Solenoid (you should have)
Solder iron and solder wire (cheap)
Vacuum line (cheap)
Zip ties (you better have, if not your should be ashamed)
There are several ways to activate the controller. Most people will either use a manual switch or automatically through the DSMLink nitrous controls. I like the ability to run it automatically using the DSMLink controls, but I still have a manual switch to shut off the second stage without having to use the computer. DSMLink nitrous controls allow you to set the second stage of boost to activate above a certain RPM, above a specific throttle position and above a certain speed. In addition, the nitrous controls have a built in knock safety feature. You can set the second stage of boost to shut off above a certain knock threshold and save your engine from damage. Having the ability to set the activation point above a certain RPM can also be used to help eliminate compressor surge or with a WWD keeping traction during launches.
This is a picture of your standard second generation unmodified fuel pressure solenoid. This is the exact type of solenoid needed to make your own dual stage boost controller. When power is supplied to the solenoid, a electric switch moves inside changing which port the vacuum/boost pressure travels through. The black plastic thing on the right side of the FPS is simply a cap to cover the alternative vacuum/boost port.
Removing this cap reveals that the FPS is actually a two way valve and not just simply an open and close valve.
Below is all the information that is really need to hook up the vacuum lines properly. The port facing toward the front of the car is always open (A/O). It is switching pressure sources between the other two ports when the FPS is de/activated. The port point toward the passenger side of the car is normally open (N/O). That means, whenever the solenoid is NOT activated this is the pressure source the A/O port is seeing. The port point toward the driver side of the car is normally closed (N/C). That means, whenever the solenoid IS activated this is the pressure source the A/O port is seeing. So, you are going to run a vacuum line from the A/O port to your waste gate, a vacuum line from the N/O port to a manifold pressure source and a vacuum line from the N/C port to your boost controller.
When the system in not activated you will be running just your waste gate set boost pressure (low boost pressure) and when the system is activated you will run the boost setting on your boost controller (high boost pressure). When your knock level goes above your set threshold, DSMLink will shut off the solenoid returning your high boost source back to the low setting. When the knock returns to acceptable levels, DSMLink will automatically activate the solenoid and return you back to the high boost setting.
Wiring is pretty straight forward. If you are lazy, there is no wiring to do. You could just leave the FPS in the stock location, but that would not be the best way. You want to keep the length of your vacuum lines to a minimum, so a better way would be to lengthen the stock wire loom to the front of the car closer to the pressure sources.
Additional manual switch:
If you want to be able to turn the system off without using a laptop to change setting in the ECU, then simply install a switch somewhere in-line of the wire supplying power to the FPS. When that switch is off, the entire system is off. When that switch is on, then the system works as you have programmed DSMLink and your boost controller to operate.
TurboXS Dual Stage Boost Controller Installation:
DSMLink nitrous controls can be used to directly control the TurboXS electric dual stage boost controller. In order to have DSMLink control the TurboXS, simply run the ground wire from the TurboXS to the ground wire (black with a blue stripe) on the stock FPS wire harness as illustrated in the picture below.
Now when DSMLink activates the FPS using the nitrous controls, the TurboXS will activate to high boost setting.
Additional manual switch:
As above, if you want to be able to turn the system off without using a laptop to change setting in the ECU, then simply install a switch somewhere in-line of the wire supplying power to the FPS.